How to better your erg | rowing machine workout by a rower

How to better your erg | rowing machine workout by a rower

Written by a Personal Trainer who is also a competitive rower.

Reading time 14 mins (also a skimmable post)

The erg / rowing machine

This guide focuses on 7 key ways to get a better erg / rowing machine workout session. There are tips on set-up, the rowing stroke technique, key erg monitor data and types of workouts.

The different types of erg

A long standing gym staple, and continuing to grow in popularity, is the ergometer (the correct term for a rowing machine, usually shortened to an erg or ergo).  The Concept 2, an air resistance rower, is the world’s best selling brand. Used by gym-goers to on-water rowers to Olympic athletes, plus other sports people for cross training purposes.  Gym owners love them as they are a solid piece of equipment that needs minimum maintenance and rarely goes wrong.  There are other types such as the water resistance, magnetic resistance and hydraulic resistance rowing machines.  

I’ll focus on the most popular, the air category, which has two distinct types of erg – static and dynamic.  

The static air resistance erg, ie the Concept 2, has a seat that goes back and forth along the slide (the long rail part). You use your legs to move your body to and from the fixed flywheel cover. 

The dynamic air resistance erg, ie RP3, has a seat that goes back and forth and wobbles side to side. It’s classed as dynamic because the fly wheel cover is not fixed.  This too can move back and forth along the slide so you have a realistic rowing boat feeling of push / pull on the legs. Plus the unstable seat to encourage a stronger core needed to balance a boat on water.  If you use a static erg, the RP3 is disconcerting at first, but provides better land training for on-water rowers.  

As most gyms have a Concept 2 and not the (niche) RP3, I’ll use if for my guide.

How to set the footplate correctly (it’s not about the size of your feet!!)

You want to get the correct height of the footrest, which has nothing to do with your trainer length. Instead it’s all about how much you compress at the catch (when your body is closest to the flywheel).

Strap in your feet and slide up the rail. The momentum will take you further than just sitting at the catch.  If your shins are vertical, you have the right height set for the footrest.  If your knees go over your ankles or the seat hits your heels, then you over-compress. Adjust the footrest heels higher (use the lower numbers) until your shins are vertical.  If your shins aren’t reaching the vertical, lower the footrests. It helps to do this with a side-long mirror or with another person watching. Check they’re on the same number, it’s surprising how often this mistake is made!

If you are particularly stiff, and you don’t get close to vertical – maybe start doing some stretching! Alternatively, it’s easy to over-compress if your leg muscles are underdeveloped, so start doing some weights.  Lastly, don’t do the straps super-tight or you’ll find your blood supply cut off to your feet mid-workout.

Setting the drag factor for a beneficial erg workout

The next adjustment to make is the drag factor setting. What do you mean you don’t know what this is even though you’ve been using an erg for years?!  The drag factor setting is what the damper handle and the numbers 1-10 are all about. The damper being the lever on the flywheel cover that controls how much air flows around the flywheel.

What it is

The drag factor reproduces the feel of rowing in a boat on water. When rowers are in the recovery phase (explained later), the drag of water over the hull slows down the boat. A fast moving 8 crew boat will have a lower drag of around 90. A single scull will be around 130 (tidal water will shift these numbers). The vents are opened and closed using the damper, with 10 being fully open, 1 being fully closed. Note that this has no relevance to the intensity of your workout.

What it does

During the recovery phase, the more air entering the flywheel (higher number), the faster the flywheel will slow down. Less air equals less slowing down. Setting a drag factor on an erg ensures you achieve the same rowing experience on different machines. This is important if you want to compare data of previous workouts. For example, a damper set to number 5 may give a DF of 130 on a newer machine or 120 on a machine that has dust inside the flywheel cover. So check the drag factor to set your damper instead of choosing a number between 1 to 10.

What you should do

A high DF can be hard on the lower back. It’s best left to strong people with good technique. However a light DF, which leaves the flywheel spinning longer, can be difficult to feel at the catch position. This is because force needs to be applied quickly to accelerate the flywheel faster than it is already moving. This also makes a low DF unsuitable for less experienced rowers. The Goldilock’s zone for someone new will be around 125 – 140.

To set the drag factor; go to the monitor main menu, press ‘other options’; ‘display drag factor’ and then start rowing for several strokes at the same pace of your planned workout.  As for which level, a Concept 2 article here explains the drag factor top rowers like to use – the answers may surprise you! Alternatively play around with the different levels and find your DF number.

The monitor – which data to focus on when rowing

With the monitor and the data on it, the most important, whilst rowing, will be your rate and split. 

The rate

The rate is how fast your stroke cycle is.  For a more endurance aerobic-type workout, keep the rate low; 18-24.  The taller, stronger or heavier you are, go for the lower end of low. It’s also good to start off at low rates to make sure you’re getting your technique correct.  For anaerobic sprints – rates above 30 are where to aim for.  Rates in between will depend on your fitness and height; some find 26 relaxing, short people have a shorter stroke cycle, so it’s easier for them to row at a higher rate than those who are tall.   Speaking of size, the heavier you are, the easier it is to get a good erg score.  That’s because your bodyweight in the drive phase gives better momentum than those who are lighter.  There is a Concept 2 weight calculator which removes the advantage – which lightweights love to mention. 

The split

The split measures how many minutes it takes to row 500 metres at your current pace, and will fluctuate with an increase or decrease in power.  Rowers talk about their split and/or how many metres rowed when doing a timed piece. Or their split and/or time when doing a distance piece.  If rowing beside someone and you want to take a peek, the easiest data to spot is their split!  An experienced erg user will avoid their split fluctuating too much as they’ll be familiar with their pace and adhere to it, with perhaps a push at the final stage. 

Heart rate monitor

If you use a chest-worn heart rate monitor, an erg that’s a PM4 or PM5 (newer models), should be compatible. Keeping tabs on your HR is useful if you’re aiming to do a UT2 workout (explained later).

The Force curve

When rowing, another piece of interesting feedback from an erg, is to watch the graphic shape your stroke produces. This is known as the force curve (see drawings below).  The force curve, as its name suggests, represents the force applied during your power phase. It shows the power variations as you use your legs, back and arms.  The aim is to have a smooth curve that rises substantially during the leg phase and tapers away as the arms come into play. It should show the end of the curve at a lower point than the start. 

Five hand drawn graphs showing different Concept 2 erg force curves from incorrect to ideal
© Ijustwantmybodyback.com

The correct body movements of a rowing stroke

With the set-up complete, let’s discuss how to use the correct body movement for each part of the stroke.  

Hold the handle loosely with your fingers with hands shoulder width apart and palms facing downwards. Do avoid the death grip which will tire out your arm muscles. Try to keep your hands in a straight line with your wrists at all times. Avoid cocking your wrists upwards, particularly at the finish, as that will tire out your lower arm muscles. 

There are four phases to the stroke – the catch, drive, finish, recovery. 

Body positions moving to the catch

And there are seven distinct body positions from the finish (which is also the start) to the catch: 

  • The finish is when you have your legs fully extended straight, knees not locked; you’re leaning back slightly with your weight on the back of the seat; you have the handle pulled to the base of your sternum (bra band level for women, or strap level if you wear a heart monitor), with your elbows behind and hands in line with your wrists.
  • The next position, called hands away, is the start of the recovery phase, where you move your hands out in front (only your arms move, not your body).  Yours arms should be straight.
  • Then it’s the body rock-over when you lean over from the hips – not by bending your back – and your body weight moves to the front of the seat.  Some people will be able to lean forward with a straight back more than others. Check your knees aren’t locked straight as this hinders leaning forward.
  • Position 4 is known as the quarter slide. It’s small movement a quarter of the way along the slide without changing anything within your body position, except slightly bending your knees.
  • From there move to half slide by bending your knees a little more. When moving to three-quarter slide, note if you have started to lean your upper body further over – you shouldn’t. It should be held steady in the same position as rock over.  Your heels should still be in touch with the foot plate unless you have tight calves, in which case they will start to lift. This is the end of the recovery phase. 
  • The final position is full slide, known as the catch. You are as far up the slide as you can compress (having adjusted your foot rest to the right height), with your heels lifting off footrest. 
  • The drive or power phase should have you driving your legs to push you backwards. Up until about 1/2 slide, no part of your upper body should shift – it should still be leaning forwards, arms straight. The moment when you want to open up from the hips, use your upper body to swing back to gain momentum.
  • At the final moment you bring the handle back to your chest to the finish/start position.  If you are new to erging or you need to brush up your technique, it helps to do the above in a mechanical way, making a distinct movement with each phase.  
Close up shot by a PT & rower with the focus on an erg / rowing machine showing where the chain should be in the centre throughout the stroke to improve your workout
© Ijustwantmybodyback.com

(And things to be aware of…)

Avoid the chain being slack in the recovery phase, which means you’re too relaxed. It shouldn’t be excessively moving up and down otherwise you’re holding the handle too high or low. And it definitely shouldn’t be banging against the flywheel cover.  Keep it midway in the space for the chain (see image – my club tapes where the chain should be).

Be conscious of getting your hands out before rocking over the body, and rocking over the body before bending the knees.  If you bend the knees too early, you’re likely to knock them with the handle.  Or you lean over too much which puts you in a weak position at the start of the catch.

Also observe how straight you’re back is, try sitting up through the stroke but especially at the catch and finish.  You need a strong core to avoid slumping, which can lead to lower back ache. The more you work to sit up, the stronger your core will get. 

Try to keep the shoulders upright at the catch, which will encourage a straight back. And avoid your shoulders hunching up towards your ears. 

Re-read the advice above on checking your force curve on the monitor, which also helps to fine-tune your technique.

Standard types of erg workout and warm-up

The first thing you should do before you get on an erg is decide what you want to achieve. How long you plan to be on there, whether it’s going to be endurance based or a faster cardio workout.  Your drag factor and warm up should be relevant to the training you’re about to do. So don’t just get on it, plan it beforehand.  

UT1 and UT2

In rowing we usually refer to workouts as UT1 or UT2, the UT standing for oxygen utilisation.  Both are ‘aerobic’ zones – an anaerobic-based race (ie less than 60 secs) doesn’t exist in rowing, either on water or indoors. UT1 is a more intense workout, where breathing becomes laboured and lactic acid can occur, and usually involves a higher rate.  UT2 is a lighter but longer workout designed to burn fat rather than your carb-based energy resources (muscle glycogen).  UT2 is rowed at rate 22 or less.

Standard workouts

Decide on the distance or length of time to work out.   The three main workouts used by rowers are 2k, 5k and 30 minutes.  See how quick you get the first two done and how many metres you row for the third.  The 2k and 5k are standard tests for on-water rowers from club level to Olympian. The 2k is used as a test gauge for the strongest rowers in the regatta season (race courses being typically 500m-2k). The 5k is the test distance for the head races (5-7k). 

For your workout choice, decide if you want to do cardio to improve fitness or fat burning endurance.  Other training alternatives are intervals or variable intervals, with a range of options for distance or timing. Doing short sprint intervals (100m to 500m) is a great UT1 workout if you are cross training for a stronger anaerobic base.

To choose a standard workout, go to the monitor menu, select ‘workout’, ‘standard list’ – 2k, 5k, 10k, 30mins or 500m x 1min rest intervals.   For intervals go to ‘intervals’, choose your workout, then press the button with a tick to set it.

Another alternative to add to your erg experience is rowing with your ‘feet out’. This means placing your feet above the straps instead of fastening them over your trainers. This prevents you from swinging your body back too far at the finish.

Feet out rowing

Whatever you decide to do, warm up first.  Using the erg to warm up is a good way to practise technique by breaking down each part of the stroke (and great if done with feet out):

  • Hands only
  • Add body rock over
  • Go to ¼ slide (move to the point where the knees just start of bend)
  • ½ slide (move to the halfway point of the slide)
  • 3/4 slide (the point just before your heels lift from the footrest)
  • Then do a whole stroke 

Each phase can be done 10 times or for 30 secs, whatever suits you.  For short intense workouts, it’s recommended you progress your warm up with a low rate interspersed with faster power strokes. This should last for at least 12 minutes before attempting a 2k or sprint intervals.  When finished, slowly continue to row to let your heart rate drop and to allow any lactic acid to disperse.

Whichever workout you select, don’t delay your start for too long otherwise it will time out .

Clothing and footwear for the rowing machine

The right attire is fairly important. Footwear should have no give or cushioning – the opposite to a running trainer.  Weight training shoes have a solid platform outer sole therefore your power transfer during the drive isn’t lost in cushioning.  And clothing, both top and bottom, should be a close fit to avoid getting hands or the handle caught in it.

Lastly, when the erg is not in use, the handle should be left unengaged tucked up by the flywheel cover and not on the handle hook. Tension on the chain will deteriorate the chain return bungees faster than when left relaxed.

If you’re tempted to move from indoor rowing to rowing on the water, read my article on Why rowing is an awesome sport and a great workout for you

© Ijustwantmybodyback.com

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